Let me take you to a city. A capital city which, if we believed the rumours , is falling apart. High levels of crime, pollution, unreliable transport systems, outrageously expensive housing , appalling schools and unpredictable weather. Sounds great? Oh and not forgetting the constant threat of terrorist attack.
Ladies and gentlemen welcome to London. We all know about the negative stuff, we read about it every day, but in truth as every Londoner will tell you, underneath the grumbling lies a genuine love and admiration for our home town.
In the first of a ten part travel supplement, I want to reaquaint you with your city, to help you rediscover its magic. Before you go anywhere else, it really is time to get out there and explore the wonders on your own doorstep. London, in all its monstrous fabulousness, really is one of the greatest cities on earth.
Sometimes you have to suspend reality and take to the streets of London in that all too familiar of guisesthe tourist. However, before you start you will need to make a few adjustments. Sensible shoes? Check. Warm coat? Check. Posture? Chhang on what has posture got to do with being a tourist. Well, have you ever noticed how tourists always look up to the skyline while commuters look down. It's true. It amazes me how years of commuting actually reduces your peripheral awareness. Journeys are taken on autopilot with the mantra going round and round Get from A to B with the least possible hassle or delay. For a tourist, getting out at Leicester Square tube is the start of an adventure, for the weary commuter on the way home from work it seems hell on earth.
Suitably attired and head held high, it's time to start exploring.
With its melting pot of cultures , the London experience can be many different things. For quintessential Englishness you can have tea and cakes at the Dorchester, take a trip to Fortnum and Mason to pick up Royally appointed groceries, wander up to Buckingham Palace, marvel at the Constables and Turners in the National Gallery and finish off with shepherds pie at the Ivy. Yet just tweak the particulars a little and within the same vicinity you can have a truly French, Italian, Morrocan, Japanese or South East Asian day. That's the beauty of London.
To really take advantage of London at its most fragile and atmospheric, I'd recommend an early start. To see the city as it opens its eyes and takes the first tentative steps into the day is such a rare treat. For me, one of the best places in London to experience this is Soho. The contrasts between day and night are never more stark than here in the heart of red light London. As the street cleaners clear away the aftermath of the night before it feels rather like turning the lights on at the end of a party and seeing in harsh light the bleary eyes, broken CDs and the wine stained carpet. I live on Frith Street, right in the middle of Soho and the early morning walk to work is always the most invigorating and inspiring.
The most important meal of the day, as everybody knows is breakfast. For the tourist about to clock up miles of pavement pounding, I'd recommend a hearty one to kick start the day and in Soho there are plenty of places to choose from.
For upmarket elegance, head for Patisserie Valerie on Old Compton Street. This much loved Soho institution harks back to 1920's Paris and the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs are perfect to eat while reading the morning newspapers.
For classic English breakfast, nothing beats the Star café on Dean Street. This New York style deli with its red gingham tablecloths and movie star memorabilia is a gem. Cheap and cheerful fare, coffee top ups and staff who happily put the world to rights with you as they serve it, what more could you want as you ease yourself into the day.
If you need that fierce shot of espresso to get you started in the morning then head for Bar Italia on Frith Street. Established in 1949 and immortalised in song by Brit Pop heroes Pulp, this is the place to take your seat outside and do some serious people watching.
Breakfast over its time for some retail therapy.
It is tempting, when shopping in London, to simply head for Oxford Street and hope for the best. While there is no denying that Oxford Street is home to some of the leading high street names and famous department stores, for memorable shopping experiences London has so much more to offer. One of my favourite places in London to browse is Portobello Road in Notting Hill.
Bohemian shops line the sides of Portobello Road, selling everything from fruit and vegetables to designer clothing. The most famous attraction here though is the antiques market which has been trading since the 18 th century. Saturday is the main day for the market when some 1500 antique dealers trade an amazing array of collectibles and antiques from about 5:30am to 4:30pm. Also work checking out is the market at the North end of Portobello Road. As you head towards this the area starts to become more gritty and downheel but it is here that you can find the best bargains and one offs. Young upcoming designers and fashion graduates rent stalls here, so you never know you could discover a piece by a future Stella McCartney.
The organic food markets here are unique and full of fresh fruit and vegetables, olives, bread and spices.
For fresh flowers, head to Wild at Heart on Westbourne Grove. Not only are the flowers spectacular but the building itself is a design award winner.
Book lovers would do well to explore Blenheim Crescent which is home to both the Travel Bookshop, which was made famous in the film Notting Hill, and Books for Cooks, where, as the name suggests, you can find a book to match your culinary mood. The Travel Bookshop is a little haven where you can browse without being interrupted by pushy sales staff as is often the case with the larger chain bookshops.
After all that walking, its time for lunch .
One of the places I often head for is Café Med on Kensington Park Road. Although part of a chain, this really feels like an independent restaurant thanks to the dark gothic design which gives it a cosy, cavernous atmosphere. This is a great place to come in the winter to refuel and warm up with a glass of warming Chilean Merlot. The food is of a high standard and the menu, although not overly adventurous, is varied. The grilled haloumi cheese is perfect with a huge wooden bowl of piping hot chips.
If you fancy something a bit different, the Twelfth House on Pembridge Road caters for the more spiritually aware clientele. The restaurant/Café combines food, wine and astrologya lethal mix. You can have your tarot cards charted while you dine. With a warm intimate interior and a decent menu, it is worth a look in.
As afternoon sets in, sufficiently warmed up and shopped out, its time to fill that cultural void that has been gnawing all day. London has plenty of art galleries to choose from depending on your tastes. The National Gallery is home to one of the
greatest collections of European paintings in the world. These pictures belong to the public and entrance to see them is free. Highlights include Van Gogh's Sunflowers, Botticelli's Venus and Mars, Monet's Water Lily Pond and da Vinci's Virgin of the Rocks. The gallery itself, situated on the North Side of Trafalgar Square, is a building with immense presence, and the view of London from the second floor restaurant is one of the best in town.
For contemporary art, head to the Saatchi Gallery on the Southbank. Famous for showcasing innovative work by new artists, many of whom are unknown when first exhibited, this is the place to come if you are keen to see art pushing the boundaries. Legendary figures of the modern art world such as Tracey Emin and Damian Hirst first exhibited here. It costs £9.00 to get in, so check out the programme in advance.
There is something about the sun setting on London that makes you want to hail the nearest black cab, and in a perfect recreation of a Graeme Greene rendevous, direct the driver to the Savoy. Ok, so you may not be in the middle of an illicit affair, but it is nice to let your imagination run riot from time to time.
The American Bar at the Savoy has the distinction of having served the first Martini in Britain. Each and every drink is beautifully made and presented with the vodka Martini being , quite possibly, the finest you'll ever have. To complete the mood, a jazz pianist plays from 7pm to 12pm each night.
If your imagination leans more toward the future than the past, then the Long Bar at The Sanderson Hotel is for you. As you walk in to this stark white space, you are met with an 80ft wall of staring hypnotic eyes. No, not the other drinkers checking you out, the peepers are part of the design on the back of the high stools at the extraordinarily stretched bar. A great place for serious chilling out.
Any exploration of London is not complete without a trip to the theatre. The London West End is renowned the world over, yet many Londoners never make the effort to go.
Although the more obvious West End shows are popular and receive more column inches, it is worth being more adventurous. Shaftesbury Avenue is currently offering a feast of high quality drama, there's Festen at The Lyric- a dark tale of family secrets coming to the surface at a birthday meal; more uplifting fare comes with the arrival of A Life in the Theatre at the Apollo Theatre from January 27 th . This is a bittersweet comedy focusing on the friendship and rivalry of two actors in a rep company. One is a stage veteran played by Patrick Stewart, the other an aspiring newcomer played by teen favourite and ex Dawson's Creek star Joshua Jackson.
If it's the Bard you need to sate the cultural appetite, the Royal Shakespeare Company have arrived in London with a real treat, Corin Redgrave's masterly portrayal of King Lear at the Albery Theatre.
The trend of Hollywood stars taking to the stage continues with Sex and the City's Kim Cattrall starring in Whose Life is it Anyway at the Comedy Theatre. It must be said, however, that her famous role of sex bomb Samantha in the hit TV series is a million miles away from this and she is unrecognisable as a terminally ill woman fighting for the right to die.
When curtain falls, the evening's socialising can begin and you'll want to find a cosy table to huddle up, feed that grumbling stomach dissect what you have just seen..
It is easy to find a post theatre restaurant in the West End, the place is teeming with them. However, it is wise not to simply opt for the first place you see and sometimes it pays to book ahead to save disappointment.
One of my favourite post theatre restaurants is J Sheekey, the famous fish restaurant in St Martins Court, Covent Garden. The food is of a high standard and the ambience, with the top hated doorman, is classic old world London. Of the numerous fish dishes, the organic Irish salmon and the salt baked sea bass are particularly good.
Head further into Covent Garden towards the Strand to find the fabulous American restaurant Joe Allen. This place is ideal if you are still feeling the buzz of the theatre and want a more high octane environment. They have a range of entertainment, including live pianists and jazz music. Expect classic American fare such as Corn fed Chicken, Eggs Benedict and Barbecue ribs.
However, to end the evening in comfort and luxury, the only place to be is Maison Touaregue on Greek Street, Soho. This cavernous Moroccan idyll with its luscious middle eastern furnishings, solid dark wood and dramatic colour is definitely more Sahara than Soho. The subtle lighting creates a perfect setting for a late evening meal and it is open until 3am so you don't feel rushed if you arrive late. Hookah pipes and belly dancers combined with the low sofas and soft cushions adds to the feeling that you are in a little undiscovered riad in the heart of Marrakech rather than a restaurant in central London. This place offers my favourite comfort food of Cinammon laced Harissa soup followed by tender lamb tagine, with delicious mint tea to cleanse the palate. A perfect place to let the stresses of the day float away.
So as you emerge into the London night, your day moonlighting as a tourist drawing to a close, look up into the sky. Look at the buildings, the people, the street signs all those things you had never taken in before. Welcome to Londonyour London.
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